
San Telmo, Buenos Aires
I’ve rested my head on this city’s soil for one month now. It’s not a place that's easy to fully embrace but I’m still into you, BA. You’ve still got me hooked.
The Spanish is slowly sinking into my skin and with each passing day I sound less and less like a drunk two-year-old. I try everyday. Look foolish everyday. Yet feel elated everyday when I can understand a conversation. The universe opens up and goes "Si". The nights continue to offer a treasure chest of musical gems: milongas, swing, zouk lombada, jazz, international DJs and drum shows. Something for everyone to shake their assets to.
I went to a tango bar last night, La Catedral, that was part Pablo Neruda sultry dream and part David Lynch eerie nightmare. A beautiful hybrid of light and dark. Just like the Argentine people. Just like the onda aca. Just like the city itself.
BA is complex. It’s dirty and cheap and artsy and mysterious and huge. It is birthed from a drunken one-night stand between Paris and Mexico City. A hybrid of European and Latin cultures. The youth sports mullets and rat-tails, so much so that I am starting to question what decade it is.
Buenos Aires is unapologetic; you will get run over by a car if you don’t yield to it. It can be trying and yet you begin to feel yourself falling for it. BA isn’t the hot quarterback, it’s the sulky art student – you want to know it’s secrets, it’s hidden pathways.
The first few days, this city said to me “I could care less that you’re here – big deal, another post Eat Pray Love American expat exploiting my peso with cheap Malbec consumption”. I felt a bit hurt, a bit humbled. But now I’m starting to accept it for what it is, with all its broken sidewalks, black jackets and melancholy eyes. I’m starting to crush on you, BA, even though you can be difficult.
This ciudad has so much to explore, I’ve been here 14 days and have yet to walk by a tango show – there's so much more to be revealed. I'm happy that I took this plunge into the unknown and that I started here. Each day is new and each day is full. of. life.